Many motorists do not know how to change a damaged wheel and install a "spare wheel" on their own. So much we are used to using the services of service stations and all kinds of car services that in the field we become literally helpless. If you have not had to deal with a situation when the wheel was lowered on the road, and you can change it counting only on your own strength, then this does not mean that this will never happen. Therefore, in order to be fully equipped in a similar situation, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the manual on the topic of “how to change the wheel on a machine yourself”.
The detailed instructions below contain 14 points, which describe in detail the simplest wheel change manipulations. Immediately, we note that there is nothing complicated in this. It is enough to have the necessary tool, and make very little effort.
Instructions for replacing a wheel on a car
So, we will begin the step-by-step and detailed description of replacing the wheels on the machine.
- To change a damaged wheel, you need to find a safe place with a flat and hard surface, which will prevent the car from moving during work. In the event that a problem arose on the way, you should stop away from the carriageway, set up an emergency sign and turn on the light signaling (emergency light). Please note that parking on a washed out or loose dirt roadside is not worth it. Find an area of wide roadside with asphalt pavement - this will be an ideal option for the work under consideration.
- Having decided on the place, you need to turn off the engine of the machine, and then reliably fix it in place using the "parking brake". It is also necessary to put the car "at speed". To do this, having an automatic gearbox, you need to set the automatic transmission selector to the P / Park position, and with the mechanics installed, engage reverse or first gear.
- Having completed all the manipulations in the cabin, you need to be safe from rolling cars and outside. For this, wheel chocks should be installed under the wheels, the role of which in the field can be taken by heavy stones or timber. Set the stops, both under the front and under the rear wheel from the opposite jack.
- Having reliably fixed the car in place, a balloon key, a jack and a working “reserve” are removed from the luggage compartment. The latter, if necessary, should immediately pump. The jack is fixed in technological grooves, specially provided for this. If they are not visible, then you can feel with your hands, or determine the location visually, using the instructions for the car and a flashlight. Recall that the jacks can be of different types, and their installation has its own characteristics. If this is not taken into account, then an incorrectly installed jack when lifting the machine can damage the decorative “skirt” of the car or the tuning kit, if any. Being unsure of how the equipment is mounted correctly, it is better to play it safe and read the relevant instructions for your car. We only recall that most modern vehicles are equipped with a special mark, which indicates the place where the jack should be located. Such marks are in front of the rear and behind the front wheel arch.
- Next, you need to raise the jack so that it touches both the road surface and the technological seat on the body, but does not raise the car at the same time. Be sure to make sure that the jack is perpendicular to the surface of the support in order to avoid breakdown and fall of the machine during the change of wheels.
- Next, the hub protection is removed and, unscrewing counterclockwise, the fixing nuts are loosened. At the same time, remember that the latter should not be twisted completely, just loosen so that they freely rotate along the thread. While the wheel rests on the ground, cranking the nuts without rotating the wheel will be easy enough, but you still have to make an effort. For maximum performance, use the wrench included as standard with the vehicle manufacturer. If the nuts have not been removed for a long period, then use a longer lever, and remember that the Phillips wrench will require more effort than a standard cylinder analog with a single handle.
- After loosening the nuts, it is necessary to jack the car so that it is possible to remove the wheel without touching their bearings, and also establish a "spare wheel". Jacking should be done slowly and very carefully, controlling the stability of the vehicle body. If the instability of the car is noticed, then the jack must be lowered, then fix the problem by correcting and aligning the tool. For safety and confidence, the spare tire can be placed under the bottom of the machine, and after removing the damaged wheel, swap them.
- The next step is quite simple. All bolts are unscrewed counterclockwise.
- After the bolts are unscrewed. You can remove a flat tire. There are times when a disc that has not been removed for a long time sticks to the hub. To dismantle such a wheel, it should be loosened and pushed from the inside.
- Next, a spare wheel is installed on the hub. The process should be controlled so that the holes on the hub and disc match. After completing the installation, the bolts themselves are inserted. In this case, the wheel is supported by a free hand or knee.
- The next step is to tighten the bolts clockwise with a balloon wrench. However, they do not need to be tightened at this moment, it is enough to squeeze until the hats lie on the autodisc.
- After all the bolts are screwed in, the car lowers so that the wheel touches the support, but it does not account for the full weight. In other words, part of the body mass was held by a jack. In this position, the bolts are tightened. This does not happen alternately, but crosswise, half a turn bolt by bolt. Such nuances provide high-quality balancing and reliable fastening.
- Having twisted the last bolt it is possible to lower the car, and to remove a jack. Already on the ground, the bolts are once again tightened, but already in full force. And a protective cap is placed on the hub.
- The final step is to clean the tool and clean it if necessary. The punched wheel, following the keys and the jack, is also put in the trunk.
In conclusion, we give one piece of advice. Do not put off repairing a damaged wheel in a "long box". Firstly, the "reserve" is not always suitable for long-term operation, and secondly, no one guarantees that you will not get another puncture right after the next bend in the road. And the wheel itself, in contrast to the spare one, probably from the kit, and on a beautiful alloy wheel. Therefore, it is better to immediately bring it to the nearest (but verified!) Tire fitting.
- First of all, the driver needs to remove the car from the roadway, having pulled over to the side of the road. It is advisable to choose a place with the most even surface, this will be needed in the future to install the jack, and turn on the alarm.
- Switch off the engine, put the car on the “handbrake” (parking brake).
- Install a sign at the rear of the vehicle (no closer than 15 meters) warning other drivers of an emergency stop. If everything happened outside the village, then the distance from the car to the sign should be at least 30 meters.
- Having determined which of the wheels is lowered, it is necessary to support the wheel located diagonally from it on both sides in order to completely exclude the possibility of spontaneous movement of the car.
Next, you need to prepare tools for replacing the wheel.
Tool kit for replacing the wheel
It goes without saying that in each machine there should be a spare tire and a set of tools necessary to replace it, which includes:
- "Balloon" - a key that unscrews the mounting bolts or nuts, depending on the design of the wheel,
- work gloves.
There are still useful additions that, although not required, can make the job easier, and carrying them with you or not is a private matter for everyone.
Useful extras for wheel replacement
- First of all, it would be nice to carry wheel chocks under the trunk (shoes) with you, this would eliminate the problem of finding tools to fix the car.
- A set of replaceable work clothes, since replacing the wheel is a rather dirty job, and it will be very difficult not to get dirty.
- Substrate under a jack. The fact is that he must always stand on a flat platform. Otherwise, the skew when lifting the machine can at least lead to its breakdown, and as a maximum - to the fall of the car. And it’s good if the wheel is not removed, otherwise the car will fall onto the brake disc (drum) and deform it, and this problem is more serious than a broken tire. The substrate should be, although small (approximately 40 x 40 cm), but strong.
- Trim pipe. Its diameter should be such that it can easily be put on the handle of the balloon wrench. Usually, the wheel nuts are very tight, and it will be problematic to break them off simply with a wrench, especially for women, so trimming the pipe as a lever will be very useful.
- Metal brush for cleaning the inside of the wheel and hub.
- Solid oil or lithol for threading nuts and studs.
- Pressure gauge, if it is not integrated in a tire inflation compressor or pump.
If all this is available, and there is also theoretical knowledge on how to change a wheel on a machine, the process will not be difficult. The main thing is to observe the order of work, be careful, careful and accurate.
How to change the wheel on a car
To remove a damaged wheel and put in its place a whole - everything seems to be simple and clear, only this work has its own minor nuances, ignoring which may end badly. Wheel vibration resulting from improper installation will gradually destroy the vehicle's suspension. In addition, the wheel nuts, again, will begin to spin due to vibration. As a result, the wheel can simply fly off, and this already threatens a serious accident.
How to change a wheel on a car.
This short guide is written specifically for those who do not know how or do not know how to independently remove a punched wheel in the field and put a spare wheel (spare wheel) in its place.
If you have never had to stop on the side of the road due to a flat tire, or if you have never removed your wheels from a car yourself, but wish to encounter such a nuisance (if one happens) fully armed, then this wheel change instruction consists of 14 fairly simple items should definitely help you deal with this problem.
Moreover, there is nothing complicated in such a technical operation; it is a quite simple and feasible task, provided that you have to be prepared for this and ready to use a little effort.
1. Find a flat and reliable place with a hard surface (base) to remove the wheel.
You will need a firm and even surface to prevent the vehicle from moving. If the problem has caught you on the road, please do not panic, park as far as possible from the carriageway, turn on the emergency light ("emergency light") and, if necessary, set the emergency enak *.
* The warning triangle is set in accordance with Chapter 7 of the Rules of the Road. APPLICATION OF ALARM AND EMERGENCY STOP SIGN.
Avoid loose and washed out dirt roadsides. The asphalt wide shoulder option is ideal.
2. Switch off the car engine, fix the standing car with a hand brake ("handbrake") and put the selector of the automatic transmission (automatic transmission) in the Park position "P" (parking). In the case of a mechanical (manual) gearbox, put the gearbox in first or reverse gear.
3. To prevent the machine from rolling or spinning wheels, place under the front and rear wheels or under the wheel the opposite side to the jack, any wheel chocks. For this, heavy objects (stones, bars, etc. objects) are also suitable.
4. Remove the spare tire, jack and wheel wrench from the trunk.
Place the jack under the car frame in special technological grooves. If you do not know where they are located, then you will have to find them manually with your hand or look under the bottom of the car, and then using a flashlight or highlighting with a mobile phone just find them visually. This will need to be done when using a jack of a certain type.
Removing a damaged item
- After all the preparations for the main work are completed, the first thing to do is to loosen (not completely unscrew) the wheel nuts. This must be done while the wheel is standing on a hard surface. Otherwise, after hanging it, unscrewing the fasteners will be very problematic. In addition, trying to unscrew the nuts by weight, you can get the car off the jack.
- Next, install the jack. The surface under its bearing pad should be flat. From below, on the bottom of the car, next to each wheel, a special cup is usually provided, or a technical hole, closed by a lid, in which the jack should abut. If the design of the jack is such that it will have to rest directly on the bottom of the machine, then you need to be careful that it does not touch the plastic elements of the thresholds, otherwise they can be damaged when lifting. It is necessary to lift the machine slowly, without rushing, controlling its stability. The jack should stand strictly perpendicular to the support. If there is a skew, then the machine must be lowered, re-set the jack, and repeat the rise. The car rises until the damaged wheel comes off the ground, it makes no sense to raise it higher.
- After the wheel is raised to the desired height, the nuts are completely unscrewed. The last unscrewed mount is on top. It is advisable to arrange the unscrewed nuts in order, so that during the installation of the spare wheel, tighten them in the same place from where they were removed. This will extend the life of both the nuts themselves and the studs on which they are wound.
- After all the nuts are unscrewed, the damaged wheel is removed from the studs.
The reserve is set in the reverse order. Consider how this is done.
What is it for.
I. Many cars at the bottom of their bottoms, at the edges, have plastic decorative "skirts". If the jack is installed in the wrong position, it can simply crush and break this decorative plastic (“skirt”) when lifting the machine. So, dear motorists, take your time if you are not sure that you have put the jack in the right place and in the right position, then read the instructions for the car once again, which you should (preferably) carry with you.
II. Some modern cars in the place where the jack should be located, behind the front or in front of the rear wheel arch (arches), have (have) a specific concrete mark.
The second type of jack.
With this type of lift, friends are much easier. Open the decorative plug in the lower plastic of the car or find a jack under the jack, insert the jack pin into the jack and then you can jack.
5. Lift the jack until it touches the seat on the car or asphalt; you do not need to lift the car.
The jack should be perpendicular to the supporting surface where it is installed, please make sure of this. Otherwise, the car may break away from it (from a jack or a bearing place).
6. Remove the protective cap on the hub of the machine and loosen the nuts one by one, unscrewing them counterclockwise. Do not unscrew the nuts completely, but only loosen them until they begin to turn freely.
Leaving the replaceable wheel on the ground, you will be able to turn the nuts themselves, and not the wheel, which undoubtedly could happen if you tried to unscrew the wheel in a suspended position.
I. Use the wrench that came standard on the car.
II. You will need a lot of effort to turn the nuts. Especially if they have not been unscrewed for a long time. If necessary, use a longer lever or the weight of your own body, make sure for yourself that you unscrew the nuts and not tighten them on the contrary. Unscrew the nuts counterclockwise.
III. A Phillips wrench will give you more force than the simple standard cylinder wrench with one handle.
7. Jack the car. Raise the wheel so high that you can easily remove the wheel and replace it with a spare one.
I. Lift the car carefully and slowly. Look for the stability of the car body. If you see unstable car behavior (swinging, yaw), then lower the jack and correct this problem before completely raising the car again.
II. If the jack bent or stood at an angle, then bring it into a low position, correct it and continue lifting the machine.
Also, for your safety, put a spare wheel under the car’s bottom, this should be done just in case (safety) case, or, on a jacked up car, put a flat tire you just shot under the car’s bottom if the clearance (distance between the bottom and a hard surface) is obtained too small.
8. Turn all fixing bolts counterclockwise to the end.
9. Remove the wheel. A car disk can become very attached to the hub itself, so it will have to be slightly staggered or kicked from the inside until the wheel comes off without problems.
10. We put a new wheel on the hub. Follow the coincidence of the holes for the bolts, then alternately insert the bolts themselves, while holding the wheel with your knee or hand.
11. We twist the bolts until they lie on the disk with their hats. Caution: Do not fully tighten the bolts.
I. Using the balloon wrench, we lightly screw the bolts.
12. Lower the car until it comes into contact with the surface (asphalt, solid soil, road), but at the same time we do not give the load the full weight of the car on the wheel.
Tighten the bolts in a cross pattern. This is necessary to balance the wheel itself. Slowly tighten each subsequent bolt, only half a turn or a little more, until it becomes difficult enough to scroll them.
13. Fully lower the car to the road surface and take out the jack. Next, tighten the bolts on the wheel to the limit and put the cap in place.
14. We put the punctured wheel in the trunk or on another seat designed for “spare wheel” and take it to the tire fitting for repair.
When it is recommended to rotate the wheels
All recommendations for car maintenance are indicated in the instruction manual. In the same place, by the way, when and how wheels change on a car, a tire replacement diagram is drawn. Therefore, in order to make the right decision, carefully read the instructions.
With regular and proper wheel changes, tread wear is as uniform as possible. When to rearrange the wheels? Often a shift is made during a scheduled maintenance. Manufacturers recommend doing this every 20 thousand km. run.
If the movement is carried out mainly on bad roads, replacement is made every 10 thousand km. The same rule applies to those motorists who are accustomed to the aggressive style of driving a car. It is recommended to directly replace the wheels according to the scheme shown in Fig. 2.
Of course, you don’t have to think about how to change the wheels correctly, but simply entrust this work to specialists in car service. But it should be remembered that:
- such work costs money
- there is no guarantee that the master will replace correctly,
- you will always have to contact the same car service.
Meanwhile, everything can be done independently. In order to rotate the wheels technically competently, to perform all the operations yourself, without resorting to the services of a car service, it is necessary to carry out certain preparatory measures:
- We prepare the necessary tool: jack, stand, balloon wrench.
- We install the car on a flat surface with a hard surface.
- Choose the correct permutation scheme.
With a little practical experience, changing wheels from a set of tires will take 1.5-2 hours, not more.
How to swap wheels
Before swapping the wheels, it is important to choose a procedure for performing the operation. It is recommended to evaluate all the advantages, positive aspects of the process and predict in advance possible flaws.
It is important to understand that the work that the tires on the front wheels do is significantly different from the one that is assigned to the tires on the rear wheels. First of all, this is due to the level of load. A car with sports parameters and characteristics wears out tires, as a rule, more intensively.
If as a result of a periodic inspection it is established that tire wear on all 4 wheels occurs evenly, it is recommended to purchase a whole set and change tires according to the selected wheel replacement scheme.
But before you start exploring the various options, a little advice. Before you remove the summer or winter kit and make a seasonal rearrangement of the wheels, it is recommended to mark the tires (chalk or water-based paint) beforehand. This will help later figure out which side and on which axis the tire was previously located.
Tire workers recommend to put the following conventions:
- PP (front right),
- PL (front left),
- ZP (rear right),
- ZL (back left).
For rear wheel drive cars
If everything is done in a car service, the car is fully hung on the lift, and a spare tire is not required. When using the jack, a spare wheel is required to keep the vehicle in a stable position.
After removing the left rear wheel, a spare wheel is temporarily set in its place. Next, the front left, rear right and front right wheel are successively changed. After the work is completed, the spare wheel is put in place - in the trunk.
For all-wheel drive cars
The procedure for all-wheel drive cars is similar. But there is such an option - to put a spare wheel and gradually wear it out simultaneously with four other wheels. It is more suitable for cases when it is not possible to buy a new kit, or when you just feel sorry for the money.
Before installing the spare wheel, its inner surface must be cleaned with a metal brush from dirt, especially in the area of contact with the surface of the hub. The same thing needs to be done with the hub itself. Otherwise, the dirt between the disk and the hub will not allow the wheel to sit tightly in its place, it will result in microperverse. Because of this, vibration of the wheel, uneven erasure of the tread surface, and gradual loosening of nuts may occur.
The next thing to do is to check with a manometer whether the pressure in the reserve is in accordance with the norm and, if necessary, to inflate the tire (2 kgf is considered to be normal by default).
Before installing the wheel on the studs, their thread is slightly oiled with solid oil. Wheel spinning begins with the nut located on top. She twists to the end, but does not tighten. This must be done according to the cross system. That is, after tightening one nut, the next one is the one on the opposite stud.
After that, the machine lowers, the jack is removed, and the nuts reach the maximum. The tool along with the punched wheel retracts into the trunk.
Actually, on this topic, how to change the wheel on the machine yourself, can be considered closed. This work is simple, and any motorist who does not even have experience with the tool will be able to do it.
In addition to the foregoing, I would also like to touch upon questions about how to change the wheels of a car from summer tires to winter tires, and how to increase the tire life by a shift method.
Features of seasonal wheel replacement
With a seasonal change of rubber, there is a very important point that must be observed. In this case, knowledge about how to change the wheel on the machine will not be enough. Before this procedure, the wheels must be balanced anyway. It will be impossible to do it on your own, unless, of course, there is special equipment and proper qualifications. That is, the wheels will need to be shown to specialists. The only way you can save a little on this: take the wheels for tire fitting, and after balancing, at home, replace them yourself.
How to swap wheels on a car
To extend the life of already installed wheels, experts recommend changing their places. Then the tread will wear more or less evenly, because on the leading elements the wear of its pattern is much more intense than on the followers.
To change the wheels on the machine yourself, you just need to know the process diagram and remember the frequency. Relocation should be done every 10 thousand km. There are several such schemes, depending on the drive of the car and the type of tire. If the tires are asymmetric type, then it will be universal for any type of drive. In this case, the wheels are simply rearranged from one axis to another in parallel.
Rearrange symmetrical tires on front-wheel drive
The rearrangement of symmetrical tires on a front-wheel drive car is also quite simple. In this case, the wheels, having passed the allotted mileage, are rearranged diagonally relative to the axis of the machine.
But here it must be remembered that if during operation at least one of the wheels received serious damage, then it should only stand on the rear axle (not the drive axle), and further rearrangement with his participation can no longer be done.
Rearrange symmetric tires on all-wheel drive cars
The rearrangement scheme for all-wheel drive cars is similar to that for rear-wheel drive, but vice versa.
In this case, the front wheels are mounted in parallel on the rear axle, and the rear “move” to the front diagonally.
In conclusion, I want to note that knowing how to change the wheel on a car, and applying this knowledge in practice, the driver can not only solve the problem with a broken tire, but also increase the life of the installed tires, thereby saving his time and money.